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<td”>Paphiopedilum:

Water thoroughly. Avoid letting the potting mix dry out completely. Paphiopedilums are low-light orchids that thrive with indirect sun exposure. Medium green leaves indicate sufficient light for blooming, while dark green leaves suggest a lack of light. If the leaves turn yellowish-green or develop a reddish tint on the edges, the light is too intense.They prefer slightly cooler conditions, 50–60°F at night and 70–80°F during the day. A 10–15°F drop between day and night temperatures, especially in winter, is crucial for initiating flower spikes. Paphiopedilums benefits from a temperature differential, especially a cool period for multifloral types, between autumn and spring when blooms typically appear. A new root tip is generally rounded and glossy, while a flower spike is pointy and often a different color, such as greener. The tip of a flower spike can have a “mitten-like” or single, non-glossy, pointy shape, which is easier to see after a week or two. Flower spikes usually emerge from new growth, and new growth matures over one to two years, producing a single flower.Paphiopedilums thrive in 40–70% relative humidity, which is significantly higher than most homes, especially in dry Virginia winters. Paphiopedilums do not have pseudobulbs (water-storing stems), so they need consistent moisture. The frequency depends on your home’s conditions, but typically once a week is sufficient.Fertilizing: Feed your orchid regularly, but weakly. Apply a balanced (20-20-20) orchid fertilizer at a quarter to half strength every one to two weeks. Flush the pot with plain water once a month to prevent salt accumulation, which can burn the roots.Light needs are easy to fulfill for a Paphiopedilum. Most will thrive with 2 to 3 hours shaded sunlight a day. Many types of Paphiopedilum will grow well under artificial light. Use lightbulbs/LEDs of your choice that are about 1-2 feet above the plant.The new growth on a Paphiopedilum consists of a “fan” of new leaves that emerges from the base of the previous fan. New fans emerge from the base of the plant, connected to the existing rhizome, and will eventually mature to produce a new flower spike. The old fans will gradually wither and die off over time, transferring their stored nutrients to the new growths. Continue providing good care, including proper watering and fertilization, and the new fan will grow larger over one to three years until it’s ready to bloom.Encourage Flowering:
Provide bright, indirect light, or morning sun, but protect the leaves from harsh sunlight, which can cause them to burn. Temp drop at night.
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Phalaenopsis:
![]() Water when medium is dry. The Moth orchid is the most common orchid due to its ease of production and the ability to force it to bloom year-round. Phalaenopsis are easily grown in the home and stay in bloom for a very long time. A mature phalaenopsis will be in bloom much of the year with graceful inflorescences loaded with good-sized blooms. From pure whites to unusual spotted harlequins, phals are sure to please. Mounting Phalaenopsis onto bark provides the airy, well-draining environment necessary for Phalaenopsis orchids, mimicking their natural growth on tree branches. For mounting, use a piece of cork or oak bark, securing the orchid’s roots with damp sphagnum moss and fishing line. To grow Phalaenopsis orchids, provide them with bright, indirect light, and water only when the potting medium is dry, usually every 7-10 days, using lukewarm water at room temperature. Maintain normal home temperatures (65-75°F), provide high humidity (40-70%) with a humidifier or wet pebble tray, and use a well-draining orchid potting mix, like fir bark or sphagnum moss. Feed your orchid with a weak, balanced orchid fertilizer “weakly, weekly” or every other watering. Repot every 1-2 years after flowering, trimming any soft, rotted roots. |
Fall 2025:
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![]() Phalaenopsis orchid, purchased from Amazon, received Nov 21st, 2025. Received blooming, 2 stems, nice healthly large leaves. Salmon color inner flowers with yellowing edge tinting. The Moth orchid is the most common orchid due to its ease of production and the ability to force it to bloom year-round. Phals are easily grown in the home and stay in bloom for a very long time. A mature phal will be in bloom much of the year with graceful inflorescences loaded with good-sized blooms. From pure whites to unusual spotted harlequins, phals are sure to please. Received in good health, blooming. About 24-inches high. Nice looking white 3-inch pot but decided to repot into 5-inch dark green, open sided cermanic orchid pot with moss. Seems quite happy in the pot. Do not be dismayed by the (often sudden) dropping of Phalaenopsis blooms as spring turns to summer. This is the time of year we expect Phalaenopsis to drop their blooms and begin their growth season. We expect them to spike again when they notice the chill of early fall and bloom in the winter or spring. Since Phalaenopsis orchids remain in bloom for a large percentage of the year it is best to seize the opportunity to repot them right after they finish blooming. Phalaenopsis, especially the younger ones, typically thrive on repotting. Fresh orchid mix is essential for fresh new growth. To demonstrate the repotting process, we offer a step-by-step clinic on repotting as well as a Phalaenopsis repotting video. Growing a strong orchid that will rebloom requires growing a strong root system. The leaves of an orchid may look nice but if it does not have a robust root system it will not readily reboom and thrive. Since Phalaenopsis are epiphytes (air plants) they would rather be hanging on to a tree in a jungle than be in a pot. When potted it is critical that the orchid roots be able to breathe. This makes the selection of a top quality orchid mix of the utmost importance. Don’t be fooled by generic orchid mixes sold at hardware stores. When it comes to orchid mixes, quality and freshness really matter. Once you see for yourself the difference a fresh mix from the highest quality ingredients makes compared to store brands you won’t ever want to go back to those inferior mixes again. Many Phalaenopsis are sold potted in Sphagnum moss and often times the moss is very tightly packed around the roots to help the plants hold moisture as they are transported for sale. Once in our homes, however, the tightly packed moss often retains too much moisture. Seeing that the orchid is not drying out the tendency is to repot it into a mix sold in the big box stores right next to the orchids. Unfortunately, these mixes are often times made from fir bark and peat moss. Phalaenopsis, however, dislike moving into fir bark mix when they were used to sphagnum resulting in additional stress. The problem is not the fact that an orchid is potted in moss, the problem is how tightly the moss is packed for the orchid’s new growing conditions. |


























