Orchids

Water thoroughly but avoid letting the potting mix dry out completely.Paphiopedilums are low-light orchids that thrive with indirect sun exposure. Medium green leaves indicate sufficient light for blooming, while dark green leaves suggest a lack of light. If the leaves turn yellowish-green or develop a reddish tint on the edges, the light is too intense.

They prefer slightly cooler conditions, 50–60°F at night and 70–80°F during the day.  A 10–15°F drop between day and night temperatures, especially in winter, is crucial for initiating flower spikes.

Paphiopedilums thrive in 40–70% relative humidity, which is significantly higher than most homes, especially in dry Virginia winters. Paphiopedilums do not have pseudobulbs (water-storing stems), so they need consistent moisture. The frequency depends on your home’s conditions, but typically once a week is sufficient.

Fertilizing: Feed your orchid regularly, but weakly. Apply a balanced (20-20-20) orchid fertilizer at a quarter to half strength every one to two weeks. Flush the pot with plain water once a month to prevent salt accumulation, which can burn the roots.

Light needs are easy to fulfill for a Paphiopedilum. Most will thrive with 2 to 3 hours shaded sunlight a day. Many types of Paphiopedilum will grow well under artificial light. Use lightbulbs/LEDs of your choice that are about 1-2 feet above the plant.

The new growth on a Paph consists of a “fan” of new leaves that emerges from the base of the previous fan.

Paphiopedilums benefits from a temperature differential, especially a cool period for multifloral types, between autumn and spring when blooms typically appear.

A new root tip is generally rounded and glossy, while a flower spike is pointy and often a different color, such as greener. The tip of a flower spike can have a “mitten-like” or single, non-glossy, pointy shape, which is easier to see after a week or two. Flower spikes usually emerge from new growth, and new growth matures over one to two years, producing a single flower.

Encourage Flowering
Provide bright, indirect light, or morning sun, but protect the leaves from harsh sunlight, which can cause them to burn. Temp drop at night.

To grow Paphiopedilum orchids on cork bark, prepare the orchid by cleaning and trimming roots, then attach the plant to a suitable piece of cork bark using a small amount of sphagnum moss and fishing line or florist wire. The cork bark provides a natural surface for the roots to adhere to as they grow. Ensure the orchid’s crown is not buried, which can cause rot, and consider mounting the plant to prevent water from collecting in the crown.

Water when medium is dry.

The Moth orchid is the most common orchid due to its ease of production and the ability to force it to bloom year-round. Phals are easily grown in the home and stay in bloom for a very long time. A mature phal will be in bloom much of the year with graceful inflorescences loaded with good-sized blooms. From pure whites to unusual spotted harlequins, phals are sure to please.

Mounting Phalaenopsis onto bark provides the airy, well-draining environment necessary for Phalaenopsis orchids, mimicking their natural growth on tree branches.  For mounting, use a piece of cork or oak bark, securing the orchid’s roots with damp sphagnum moss and fishing line.

To grow Phalaenopsis orchids, provide them with bright, indirect light, and water only when the potting medium is dry, usually every 7-10 days, using lukewarm water at room temperature. Maintain normal home temperatures (65-75°F), provide high humidity (40-70%) with a humidifier or wet pebble tray, and use a well-draining orchid potting mix, like fir bark or sphagnum moss. Feed your orchid with a weak, balanced orchid fertilizer “weakly, weekly” or every other watering. Repot every 1-2 years after flowering, trimming any soft, rotted roots.